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Written by MS Smith!
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Friday, 21 December 2001 |
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Page 3 of 6
After about two or three months you can remove the pots from the baggies and keep them under the lights and on the heating pad cycle. Some people have been known to keep the pots in the bag for up to a year. If you find it necessary reapply the cheesecloth as needed once removed from the bag. If you begin to notice seedlings dying off after they have germinated make sure to remove the pots from the bags and allow the soil to dry out some, then follow the watering directions given below, but with added fungicide.
One additional measure I take to help recreate a natural environment indoors is to add a small fan to my timing system. I place the fan directly above the cacti on low and allow it to blow gently throughout the area of my exposed cacti. Not only will this help limit any fungus and green mold growth, but it will also help with the all too common gnat problem. Another way to limit fungus, gnats, as well as retain soil moisture, is to apply a layer of desert sand or small gravel around the seedlings once they are large enough.
Watering
Once the new seedlings are out of the baggies watering will become important. Seedlings will need more water than mature cacti, but they also stand a better chance of getting root rot. I personally recommend that the top layer of soil should come close to being dry before re-watering. When watering is needed the pots should be placed in a dish of room temperature water, allowing the water to rise through the bottom till the topsoil is moist. One can also regularly apply a fine mist with a water bottle. Distilled water produces healthier seedlings than tap water, but rain water is the best for watering as it contain trace minerals. If you decide to use a top cover it may be necessary to learn how to use pot weight as an indicator of watering time. Do this by learning the weight of the pots when fully watered. When the pot becomes noticeably lighter be sure to water. This is also a good technique for checking adult plants as well which might have rock cover.
Though my technique does not often afford rapid growth it should lessen the chances for rot, thereby securing that the small closet cacti grower has his or her limited amount of seed succeed. Following the directions of a good 1-7-6 fertilizer such as Sudbury Cactus Juice may possibly increase survival rates by strengthening the plants natural defenses. As with any cacti fertilizer it is necessary that they be fed from the bottom only, otherwise mineral deposits will built up on the cacti themselves and can cause burns.
Growing Seedlings Outdoors
Since I am in a northern clime I find it best to start my seedling by the above method indoors in the Fall with the anticipation that I will put them outdoors after six or more months of growth. It is very important that when placed outdoors the seedlings receive no direct sunlight, but are instead placed in a nice shady spot that gets diffused light. As with artificial lights to much sunlight will be readily recognizable by the reddening of the cacti. In this case the cacti can be moved to a less bright spot or else a shade screen can be used to cut back the light. My own method is to use replacement screening for screen doors and windows that can be cheaply purchased from your local hardware store in rolls. This screening can be doubled up until the needed level of protection is found. Such porous screening also allows for needed air circulation as well as protection from the occasional cacti eating bird. Of course one can also purchase professional growers shade screening.
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